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S&W Brazilain Contract Fail to Fire on 6th round in Double Action
This revolver was giving me light primer strikes in Double Action. I installed a Cylinder and Slide .002 end shake bearing and now it will fire 5 rounds DA then it will not fire DA until I fire one round SA. Once I do fire SA it will fire again. It does this with both factory loads and reloads are are more or less duplicates of factory. It also does this with a variety of moon and half moon clips.
I've also installed a new wolf main spring and put a shim (fired primer) over the set screw.
Anyone got thoughts on this?
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07-18-2011 09:57 AM
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Have you measured how much end shake remains after installing the "bearing"/shim? Also what's the actual head clearance (i.e. gap between the end of the case and the recoil shield with the case fully forward.) How's the timing? Does the firing pin fully protrude through the recoil shield when the trigger is pulled? I'm not sure that the modern mainspring is the best choice- put the original one back in, unless there's something wrong with it. That's just stuff that occurred to me for starters, there's plenty else, but 15-30 seconds "hands-on" is apt to turn into days worth of posts on-line. It might be best to find someone local who really knows vintage Smith and Wessons if you can!
Quite the involved first post! Welcome aboard.
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Sometimes the mainspring will knucke. That is to say the top end where the claws are will actually bend a bit toward the hammer. This will decrease the spring tension. I've had it happen to brand new springs, usually when single actioning a revolver. Also if you load your own use Federal 150 primers and this problem will likely end. Like J says, if I had it in my hands for a minute this would be over. Also remember, this revelver was made for which contract? 1937? Mine was and it had seen a better life years ago. I bought a 625 and sold the 1917. No more problems.
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Since you installed an end shake bearing,can you still move the cylinder forward and backward?
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Originally Posted by
Bruce McAskill
Since you installed an end shake bearing,can you still move the cylinder forward and backward?
very slightly - I tried a second bearing but it was too snug
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Get some feeler gages at least to check the head clearance.
I'm still pretty sure that the newer model mainsprings aren't compatible with the pre- WWII revolvers. I think the mainspring length changed enough to mess with the proper hammer swing. See browningautorifle's post above. If it is wrong the "feel" when bring the hammer to full cock won't be uniform. I'm sure I've encountered this before, but don't remember if the old spring is longer or shorter. Also if the spring hits a grip screw it'll mess things up.
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Originally Posted by
jmoore
Get some feeler gages at least to check the head clearance.
I'm still pretty sure that the newer model mainsprings aren't compatible with the pre- WWII revolvers. I think the mainspring length changed enough to mess with the proper hammer swing. See
browningautorifle's post above. If it is wrong the "feel" when bring the hammer to full cock won't be uniform. I'm sure I've encountered this before, but don't remember if the old spring is longer or shorter. Also if the spring hits a grip screw it'll mess things up.
put the old spring back in - left the fired primer as a shim over the strain screw and perfect
all primers have even and authoritative primer strikes
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Off to the range with ya!
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Parts interchange on Smiths of varying vintages needs it's own spreadsheet. It's even tricky on the numbered and "dashed" variations.
A range report WOULD be most welcome!
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Originally Posted by
jmoore
Parts interchange on Smiths of varying vintages needs it's own spreadsheet. It's even tricky on the numbered and "dashed" variations.
A range report WOULD be most welcome!
Some old pics
I put 48 rounds of 255 gr cast reloads through it last night w/o a hitch. It shoots straighter than I can hold it still