Clip pouch for M1 Carbine

[Bruce_in_Oz]

Quickest way to save mags during quick changes is to drop them down your shirt front. Make sure the shirt is tucked in or inside your harness belt; no untidy dressing on the battlefield, please.

Been doing this for years with pistol mags during "shoot and scoot" or even basic "service match" comps. Failing that, there is a LOT to be said for shiny, stainless steel mags with fluoro bumpers on the range.

Post match brass recovery looks like a lot of oddly-feathered chickens pecking at the ground. Not much of that to be seen on the two-way ranges.

[browningautorifle]

Quickest way to save mags during quick changes is to drop them down your shirt front.

Now the guys use a drop bag on their leg, fastened to the belt and strapped to the leg(usually left). That's got an elastic opening and you just shove the mag inside.

[szvacek]

After two cleanings and two applications on RLO, the carbine is back together. I purchased a replacement bolt for the front band assembly to replace that bolt with the rectangle bolt head and nut, but is was obviously too short, so the original is back on.

Next step is to clean up the 1911 also purchased with the carbine. The pair were carried by a friend's father-in-law during the war. He was a 1st Lt. with the 20th Armored Div. Was able to collect some information about him and his service so whenever the guns end up after I'm done with them, the history will continue.

[painter777]

Looks to have come out very nice.... Congrats !
If mine I would list each and every part type and marking.

Anyone remember where he could pull a Data sheet ?

[USGI]

Anyone remember where he could pull a Data sheet ?

No, can't remember but searched and found a link to the one that I've been using - hope it works! There's also a "fillable" one over on the CMP forum. - Bob

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B_Xz...mJm/edit?pli=1

Looks like this one can be printed "blank" or filled in with the computer.

[W5USMC]

Data sheet can also be found here.

Carbine Club Data Sheets - The Carbine Collector's Club

[usabaker]

Charlie,

I know I'm replaying to a very old post but I've got a question. How aggressive is this cleaning process? I ask because I would like to try it on a rifle but don't want to remove the used by the Armory to number the stock.

Just curious about how careful I would need to be around the edges of the paint.

Thanks

Bill

http://www.milsurps.com/images/impor...9/12/R11-1.jpg

http://www.milsurps.com/images/impor...DSC05253-1.jpg

[painter777]

Bill,
When I did that stock it was a complete strip and refinish. I used a HOT stripper on it made by UGL / ZAR which probably isn't on the market anymore or what your looking for, for your needs. I've always removed the paint. Sounds like you'll have to experiment to figure out what type base the paint is and proceed from there. Tape Plastic over the stock to protect freshly stripped paint from staining the wood. Including taping neatly over the painted markings you want to keep.

On the markings you want to remove be sure to tape a tight line along the outside border to keep any dissolved paint from seeping under in to grain beyond border lines of the letters / numbers. After stripping these letters/numbers and pulling tape you can spot treat any seepage with the Gel Strip if needed. Sometimes if the stock has a good coat of RLO or BLO under the paint which wasn't roughed up before it was painted it can come off pretty easy. I've had the bottom of pistol grips that were painted, that I taped around the clean wood and applied a simple stripper like a gel paint and varnish remover then covered over with plastic so it wouldn't dry out. A day later 90+ % of the paint wiped off with a small bondo applicator. Re-applied Gel / Paint Strip the same way, let set the same length and washed out with a hose or water pic. Sometimes swirling a toothbrush to help clear paint specs from the wood pores. When happy you might have to color shade the wood a bit. Then spot treat with RLO or BLO.

I hope this makes sense and is helpful to you. I'm sure others have different methods, so hang on. Trick is how hard the current paint base is.

1/8" or 1/4" Painters masking tape (hard to find) is nice to work with to tape around your letters / numbers because they will bend and flow along the outer edges without wrinkling up unlike the wider tapes. When I can't find it I use that 1 side or 2 sided sticky electronics tape. Acts like pin stripe, and will follow about any line you can imagine.

If you get a chance post a before pic in a new thread. Good Luck

Old Link: https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=25255

[usabaker]

On the markings you want to remove be sure to tape a tight line along the outside border to keep any dissolved paint from seeping under in to grain beyond border lines of the letters / numbers.

Charlie, I think you misunderstood. I want to keep the painted-on numbers (see picture) and was wondering if the Natural Turpentine would dissolve the paint so I could figure out the best way to protect the paint when using your cleaning process. As you can see in the picture the painted numbers are worn so I was hoping to client the stock to include the areas in and around the numbers. I use Citrus Solvent cut with polymerized RLO currently to clean my stocks, which is a lot of time and elbow grease; purposely, though rather slow and safe than a ah-crap.



Thanks again
Bill

[painter777]

Charlie, I think you misunderstood

Yea, I blew that one. For some reason I pictured maybe some Korean markings you wanted to get rid of and the GI markings you wanted to save.
Not knowing what type paint was used and seeing how thin it is has we worried. Any type of Turpentine will thin oil base paints and will dissolve them. Turps can be used to wrinkle up dried water based paints also.

My current thought would be to seal the numbers 1st thing. I'd coat the numbers using a artist brush with a Tung Oil in a Sheen that would match your final stock finish. Then you'd be able to detail clean inside the numbers (carefully).
It's about the only option I can think of to protect the painted numbers.
If I come up with something else I'll post.