polyurethane removal

[I.H.1989]

I have a WWII m1 carbine stock that has a polyurethane coating on it. What i want to know is if it would be better for me to have it removed or if i should just leave it on there.

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[jimb16]

Most of us would strip it then give the stock a good coat of linseed oil.

[imarangemaster]

Either Jasco or Formsby's strippers should work. I don't think Citri-Strip works on verathane.

[ChipS]

Try to save any markings if you can. Otherwise nothing to loose. JMHO

[sakorick]

Are you sure its poly? Polyurethane is a fairly new finish. Most of the old MILSURPS I've run across have a varnish, truoil or shellac finish to "embellish" the wood. I would start with the mildest(Denatured Alcohol) and work up to the most aggressive....Strypeeze. You may have to do several things once the old finish is off including staining with Chestnut Ridge Military stock stain. Do not sand, use steel wool or any other abrasives. Once you have stained the wood.....it may take several coats, then start rubbing very thin coats of Raw linseed oil into the stock with the palm of your hand. Wait 24 hours between coats.......you will be amazed if you take your time....Patience Grasshopper! Good luck and regards, Rick.

[CrossedCannons]

Raw linseed oil dries much more slowly than boiled linseed oil. Tackiness starts to become apparent, IMHO, on the third or fourth coat even when cut with turpentine. Instead of being a clock watcher, be patient and wait for the coat to dry(!) before applying another else your haste will be rewarded by weeks or even months of waiting.

[I.H.1989]

Are you sure its poly? Polyurethane is a fairly new finish. Most of the old MILSURPS I've run across have a varnish, truoil or shellac finish to "embellish" the wood. I would start with the mildest(Denatured Alcohol) and work up to the most aggressive....Strypeeze. You may have to do several things once the old finish is off including staining with Chestnut Ridge Military stock stain. Do not sand, use steel wool or any other abrasives. Once you have stained the wood.....it may take several coats, then start rubbing very thin coats of Raw linseed oil into the stock with the palm of your hand. Wait 24 hours between coats.......you will be amazed if you take your time....Patience Grasshopper! Good luck and regards, Rick.

Well, maybe i'm wrong, but what i can tell is that the stock has a shine to it, which i cant stand, and it has sort of a sticky-like texture to it. there was some of it on some of hte metal that would hold the receiver in place, and it had a yellowish color to it. maybe that helps in IDing what sort of coating it on it.

[WarPig1976]

A good paint remover will get that bubba goo off, get one that isn't good for the environment an has warnings all over the label. Use mineral spirits and rags to remove the leftover reside.
Now, you can either stain it with Chestnut Ridge as Sakorick suggested the stuff gives the aged look with a red hue,I love it. Or just start wiping the stock with BLO, it has dryers in it and looks just as good RLO. Which ever you chose wipe it on leave it for an hour or two and wipe off. Let dry 24hrs and repeat the stock will stop soaking in the oil when it's had enough. Don't keep going,your just wasting your time and you can put too much on which is a sticky mess. This is of course a short description and depending on the stock there are other things that can be done but it isn't rocket science if you tackle the job yourself. My 2c's

p.s
From start to finish should take about week to week 1/2...

[INLAND44]

Raw linseed oil dries much more slowly than boiled linseed oil. Tackiness starts to become apparent, IMHO, on the third or fourth coat even when cut with turpentine. Instead of being a clock watcher, be patient and wait for the coat to dry(!) before applying another else your haste will be rewarded by weeks or even months of waiting.

That's because it doesn't 'dry' and is not supposed to be applied in 'coats'. It is applied sparingly, being rubbed-in with a cotton patch or similar. The stock is then put away for at least overnight while the RLO soaks in. You can cut it with Turpentine which will speed penetration. If this will not penetrate your stock, it has some kind of hard finish that is clogging up the wood. If you get an old, black over-oiled stock, consider using Lacquer thinner on a ScotchBrite pad to clean it. For an existing unknown hard finish you may have to try the mildest solvent first as posted above - that would be the most conservative thing to do.

[CrossedCannons]

That's because it doesn't 'dry' ...

Drying oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia